Yesterday morning I got up for work and it was pouring rain. My little brother was leaving in his snowboarding jacket and trunks and I made him take a picture.
Nick always has fresh dinner.
I got a bruise from surfing Topaz and I am kinda embarrassed tell what happened.
Back when I was a regular Cove Rat in high school, the Bay Boys would always stand out. When Lunada wasn’t breaking (most of the time) they would travel to alternate breaks including the Cove, just North of their home. They would sit on the rocks on the North end of the Cove and tended to be a bit more vocal than many of the regulars. PV bread, they have established their own kind of social structure. Now, I get it. None of us want waves full of crowded (and dangerous) kooks that get in the way and are often harmful to others and are not able abide by the standard “rules” of surfing. Too many people, and loss of integrity are important to many surfers. But the Bay Boys are known for taking this way of thinking to another level.
Not so ironically, there was an anti-bigotry protest last MLKJ day. A group who call themselves the Aloha Point Surf Club banned together, decided to invade peacefully and take back what they claim belongs to no one group of people: the Pacific Ocean, more specifically Lunada Bay surf break. Fighting against body board and long board discrimination and pursue the right to surf somewhere more than a 5 blocks away from your on shore residence, the Aloha Point Surf Club has gathered more than 2,500 facebook followers and say they will not back down until Lunada is a safe place to surf.
While I do often find myself joining in on kook slamming and the fruitless attempt to keep surfing sacred, I don’t believe that surfing is about fear and hatred. Actually, I feel that my session is ruined when a fight breaks out and only a wave or two is ruined when a kook unknowingly drops in. It may be hard to expect everyone get along but I guess Gandhi would be proud.
Read more about Lanada Bay history, locals and activism at Easy Reader.
When I was in Mexico, one of my parent’s friends was surprised I could actually surf. They all know I go out regularly, but no one ever really thinks I can actually do anything. My feminist side was mildly offended, even though this was meant to be a complement. Then I began to think that when another woman tells me that she surfs, I completely doubt her ability and assume she rides whitewash on infrequent Saturdays. Guys may treat us differently, but I guess sometimes we treat each other differently too. Sorry girls, I owe you the next wave.
I have put a lot of time and energy into having a phone without internet. Free from data and instantaneous contact with the world at any moment. I am by no means “off the grid” but I regularly get yelled at for not checking my email or missing events on facebook. At least I stopped leaving my phone in the car and people can generally text me…sometimes. But you as my witness, I am on the internet now.
The other night I had a dream that I walked into a cave and then through an odd chain of events ended up chucking my phone out the mouth of the cave for no apparent reason. Eh, it’s time for an iphone anyway I thought casually. Latter on I remembered that I still have a year left on my contract and returned to the cave at dusk and gathered the pieces to my phone and stuck them back together. (This is an every day even that my phone falls apart into three pieces: body, back, battery and I put it back together. So this part of my dream is particularly vivid because it was not hard to imagine.)
Waking up, I thought to my self, am I ready to come out of the cave? Come into the light? Finally have those life essentials like an instagram or Candy Crush? Only time will tell.
Sometimes I feel so dramatically upset about the smallest things that I think,”Geeze, Marisa. Get over yourself.”
Going to the Cove today. It was crowded then too.